Economic Development and Global Integration: Perspectives from Vietnam



Globalization, Governance, and Security in Southeast Asia: Perspectives from Malaysia

Thursday, June 30, 2011

Leather-Bound Books and the Scent of Rich Mahogany

Today we had dinner at the home of former Deputy Prime Minister Musa Hitam. When the guard let us into the gate of a medium-sized estate (not incredibly large or overly-fancy), I immediately noticed his modest car collection: A Lexus LX (SUV), Audi A8, a 5-series BMW, a Jaguar, and large car with a BMW cover over it (probably a 7-series)—something light, you know? To the left of the front door was an infinity pond with large koi swimming around. To the right was a shoe rack. We all removed our shoes before entering the house that sat on a hill in a neighborhood with much larger and fancier estates.

Not only was this dinner and conversation in such an intimate setting a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity because Musa Hitam was a former Deputy Prime Minister (Al Gore’s older Malaysian counterpart), he’s also the current chairman of the board of directors at Sime Darby. If you forgot or have not read my prior blog entries, one of my responsibilities was to conduct a SRI (Socially Responsible Investment) rating for Sime Darby. On the ground in Malaysia, the company’s name is associated with poor labor rights in the distant past; and corruption in the recent past and present. At work, when Sean found out that I was rating them, he warned me to take my time because there were several allegations of corruption (which reduced the score of their rating). Here I was sitting on this man’s couch starting at his family photos—one flawless Asian woman on horseback sporting neat equestrian apparel (seriously, this photo belonged in a magazine!).

When he entered the room, we stood,individually introduced ourselves, and he began chatting about how he only paid RM850,000 (US$283,333) for this home after a divorce. He lucked out 20 years ago during a tough economic time when many people were selling mansions for almost nothing.

Getting down to business, he discussed the political history of Malaysia from Independence (1957) to the current administration. He included commentary on the direction that Malaysia was headed when he served under Prime Minister Mahathir bin Muhammad. Hitam won the seat in an open election after holding the following government positions in the years leading up: Chair of the Federal Land Development Authority, Deputy Minister of Trade & Industry, Minister of Primary Industries, and Minister of Education. Blaming Mahathir’s intolerant regime, he resigned and parted ways with Malaysian national politics. He also offered commentary on the sitting Prime Minister, Najib, who he speaks with quite often, but tries to avoid the subject of politics with. Basically, Hitam says that PM Najib is a good guy and the most tolerant PM Malaysia’s seen, but surrounded himself with all of the wrong people. Najib will call an election in less than a year, to prove his legitimacy, since he was appointed to the position. Hitam thinks that he will lose. He also touched on racial politics of Malays vs. …well, everyone else. He is pro-meritocracy and believed that fellow Malays should feel insulted that many of their leaders are trying to scare them into believing that they need the positive discrimination to be successful. That’s the second Malay I’ve heard make that argument.

Changing subjects, Hitam bragged about the World Islamic Economic Forum’s (WIEF) bottom-up approach juxtaposed to the World Economic Forum in Davos. As the chairman of this organization, he made it a point to tell us that he rejects all political and religious rhetoric, focusing on economics. He also pointed out the irony that this body sought the political goal of externally promoting positive association between the Islamic religion and their emerging economic practices and financial products. Many aspects of Islamic finance are catching on in Muslim and some non-Muslim groups in the West. Hitam said that the US is not invited to the WIFE just yet, because they either get overly-excited or get too afraid to talk about anything other than terrorism.

I knew it would come up eventually. The chairman of Sime Darby, a multibillion-dollar company looked me right in the eyes and asked me what I thought of his company. I was more nervous that I did not have hard facts and numbers memorized about my ratings. I first complemented him on how detailed the 2010 Annual Report was. A lot of information about their CSR efforts was available. What caused their ratings to suffer was the many corruption allegations. Hitam explained that when he began his chairmanship in 2007, he set up an internal task force to expose all of the company’s dubious dealings; “whatever allegation you’ve found came from us. We investigated, fired those responsible, and publicized it ourselves.” Professor Heng asked about Sime Darby’s human rights and labor violations. He abruptly asked, “What violations? Where did you find them? If it is going on, I want to know where as soon as possible. Actually, Sime Darbvy is the industry leader with the highest minimum wage.”

He moved the Sime Darby discussion to their palm plantations in Liberia. When he took the reins four years ago, he had his staff survey all of the property that they owned. Several hectares surfaced in Liberia. Even though the civil war there had been over for years, he was told that the land was worthless and should be discarded. He did not take that advice, and set up palm plantations there. Sime Darby also built schools for the children of the workers and housing for their families. He was particularly proud of the upgrade in these facilities—no more long row houses with one room for each family to squeeze into. “The Liberian people are so happy that we are there.” It was hard not to feel a slight cynicism when anyone makes statements like that, but I could sense integrity in this man. The question is could his family survive in one of these houses for a week when they visit Liberia?

The rest of the evening played out like anyone would imagine—a dinner with an elder statesman and foreign graduate students. Questions and conversations about corruption, immigration, women’s rights, religion, and ASEAN’s emergence danced around the table. He methodically handled every question with the same format. First he would spend a lot of time telling what you didn’t want to hear. It was an opportunity to remind us of how great Malaysia is, how far it has come, and that the US has ALL of the same problems in different manifestations. Then he would crack a joke before briefly mentioning where Malaysia could do a little better.

Before we left, he showed a couple of is his fruit trees in the backyard, the view of the Masjid downhill, and the giant deck (more than half the size of my parents’ house) that his friend’s daughter designed. I admired his infinity pool as I headed back inside. We met his 17-year old son (I assume he’s from the second marriage) who was headed to MIT for engineering. We stepped out of the door, put on our shoes and thanked him for the conversation and hospitality.

Working in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia!

During my 2 months in KL, I will be interning at the Institute for Strategic and International Studies (ISIS) Malaysia. Since arriving, I've been assigned a variety of challenging yet fascinating tasks, ranging from research on US-Malaysian relations, ASEAN issues and the East Asia Summit to editing essays, to attending the Asian Development Bank's ASEAN 2030 plan conference. It's been an amazing opportunity so far and immensely rewarding; applying all that you have learned to this environment, there's no other word to describe it, is just simply rewarding. It feels like everything has come to fruition. The experience so far has only reaffirmed my commitment to continuing to pursue my education further. Just being here, even though it has only been 2 weeks, has confirmed that I really enjoy working in the think-tank world; being hands-on in research is exactly what I want to do.
In the up coming weeks, ISIS and the Malaysian Ministry for International Trade and Investment (MITI) will be hosting the ASEAN Economic Ministers meeting in KL; it is a real privilege to be able to attend the conference.
KL is a great city. The food is absolutely phenomenal! Chinese, Malay, Indian and Western all mixed into one here; I haven't had a bad meal so far! If you do, I have no idea how someone would be able to manage that. The city itself is beautiful. My office sits right across the street from Tugu Negara (the National Monument), I often after work walk through the park in order to get a cab home, nice relaxing walk before heading back.

An Internship in Vietnam

Almost two and half weeks have gone by since I started my internship at the Center for Marinelife Conservation and Community Development, or as everyone calls it, MCD. I think you know you've lucked out when the first three days of your internship are spent on a staff retreat to Co To Island. Co To is the largest of a small chain of islands about 150km north of Ha Long and little south of border with China. I spent three days there, meeting the staff and their family members as we motored from secluded beach to secluded beach, ate fresh seafood and swam in the warm clear water. After a brief stay in paradise, back to the bustle of Hanoi. Time to start the real work.

MCD is a domestic NGO devoted to ecosystem security and sustainable development in coastal communities (check it out here). They are working with SIDA (the Swedish International Development Cooperation Agency, don't ask me where the c went) on a three year project to address sustainable development, natural resource management, and climate change in two UNESCO biosphere reserves. They have given me the space and support to perform research that lines my interests up with their SIDA project. I am studying the institutional capacity of local governance institutions in the Red River Delta Biosphere Reserve and Cat Ba Biosphere Reserve to integrate climate change adaptation and mitigation into their local policies and projects. It is a new project, and a kind of research they have not done before. They are sending me to each biosphere reserve to conduct interviews and surveys of key decision makers. Ideally, this will culminate in an article I have written, that MCD will use to inform their role in climate change and biosphere reserve management, and will be published in a journal or topical magazine. I do no administrative work, my time at MCD is devoted completely to the project. I am doing all the background research/literature review, designing the fieldwork and methodology, conducting the interviews, and interpreting the results. MCD is providing feedback and support throughout the process, setting up the interviews, and helping with translation. It almost feels more like a collaborative research project than an internship, but I wouldn't be able to do this kind of work without their support.

A quick note if you are thinking about an internship or Vietnam: To get to work you'll have to either take the bus or rent a motor bike. A car or motorbike taxi's will b
e too expensive to use twice a day. If you're on a budget (read cheap) like myself you'll opt for the bus. Renting a motorbike might cost you between $50 and 70$ plus a month in addition to gas and repair. The bus however, costs about 3,000 dong (vnd) a bus ride. To give you some perspective, right now $1 = about 20600 vnd. So the bus costs you somewhere around $0.15 a ride. If you're like me and you have to take two buses to get to the office you spend 12,000 vnd ($0.58) on the bus a day. You can always buy the monthly pass though, its only 80,000 vnd (a little less than $4).

Should you decide to take the bus, bring running shoes and get ready to throw an elbow or two. Once you're on the bus it's smooth sailing, the man who gives out tickets is more than happy to help confused foreigners not miss their respective stops, it's getting there that's the challenge. It's a rare thing to find a bus driver in Vietnam who believes in coming to a complete stop. The bus will slowly roll along the stop, opening only one of its two doors to let about fifteen people spill out as another fifteen jog along and shove their way aboard. It's quite a sight to behold. I've only seen the bus leave someone behind
once, you'll probably make it.


The MCD team, some family, and myself on the trip to Co To



Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Vietnam: A Retrospective

To see how much Vietnam has changed over the last 10 years is hard to grasp. I was first there in 1995, just have the political normalization between the US and Vietnam. From what I remember and the pictures taken, Hanoi was a dimly lit city with another unbelievable amount of bikes. The amount of bikes haven't changed, but the city is no longer dimly lit. It's a growing "metropolitan" city; condensed, bustling, fragrant and its own way, beautiful. Hoan Kiem Lake, close to where we stayed, was directly in the middle of the city; it was surrounded by multicolored lights, speeding motor bikes and cars, and people just take it all in. I can't even remember how many times we walked around the lake.
Nothing can prepare you for the "traffic" in Hanoi. Road lights hardly mean anything, they might as well be decoration for the street. Thousands of people on bikes zooming up and down streets, hardly paying any attention to the pedestrians; sometimes the sidewalks even turned in to roads. It took me about a 3 days to get used to how to maneuver around the stampede of bikes. We joked that when they did stop for traffic lights, it almost felt like the running of the bulls in Pamplona, seeing them headlights staring right at you as your crossed the street, right before they charged. To say traffic in Hanoi was interesting would have been an understatement in the least.
You could see that Vietnam was seeing the signs of becoming a middle-income country; one of the most shocking things, were the cars on the street (this added even more chaos in terms of traffic). You would see honda's, mitsubishi's and a ford here and there, but all of a sudden you would see a Porsche, a Bentley or a Rolls Royce rolling on down the street. To say there is an wealth-income inequality seemed to be an understatement. The contrast between these cars and the thousands of bikes that moved around them almost seemed surreal.
One could see that Vietnam was becoming economically developing, but from my perspective had a far way to go. Infrastructure was still lacking and in some cases in its infant stages. Even where in some instances where there were new roads, some of them were build haphazardly. I thought it was the suspension in our car that made us bounce around as we traveled, but it was the roads.
Hanoi was a great little city and I really enjoyed it. Ho Chi Minh City, the financial hub of Vietnam, was a bustling metropolitan city, but have the warm feeling that I got from Hanoi. HCMC had all the hotels from around the world, but felt much "colder" then Hanoi. What I did find fascinating was the historically significance of HCMC. Going to the War Museum, which I would recommend for anyone in the city, and going to the US consulate; you are able to "picture" what it was like 40 years ago. You can go to museums and see the pictures any where in the world, but to walk out into the place where it all happens, puts it all in context and perspective.
Overall, I would say the trip was extremely intense, but I got a great deal out of it, more than I would have expected prior to arriving. My knowledge of political economy and of Vietnam expanded 100x just in 3 weeks. On a side note, GET COFFEE. Vietnamese coffee is awesome.

AWAM

I arrived in Kualu Lumpur on May 31st after two days of travel. I have never been to Asia before, let alone Malaysia and I had no idea what was in store for me. I went through security, found my luggage in one piece, and hopped into a taxi with a kind man who didn't speak a word of English, and just as frustrating, I do not speak any Indian languages.
Many wrong turns later, we arrived at Lensvilla, the hostel I would be living at for the next two and a half months. It is a modest living area-there is a main room with a large table and six desks, a bathroom, a room with a sink, a few bedrooms, and my bedroom. I was assigned a roommate, something that would prove to be interesting, as I have not shared a room with someone in almost ten years! I unpacked everything, and now I was ready to start my adventure.

The next day I was off to my internship. I was extremely excited to get to work and see what my responsibilities for the rest of the summer would be. I am interested in gender equality and women's empowerment and Dr. Heng found me an organization that she believed I would be perfect for. I was accepted as a summer intern for All Women's Action Society (AWAM). AWAM started as a movement in 1985. Many young students left Malaysia to study abroad - New Zealand, Australia, UK,and the United States. They came back feeling energized and ready to fight for inequalities that surrounded women around them. They started as a movement with the goal of initiating an act that would be an end to domestic violence. Over twenty years later, AWAM is still working tirelessly to fight for gender-equality. They work on various campaigns, train counselors, collaborate with other humans right organizations, and counsel women who have been victims of abuse.

The office is actually a three-story home in a residential area. This gives a safe and welcoming feeling the moment you step into the office. Once I got there, and took off my shoes, I meet with my boss Betty. She introduced me to the friendly staff (a total of four paid members and the rest of the work is handled by an incredibly dedicated group of volunteers and interns.) I would be an advocacy intern, focusing specifically on a campaign that is working towards criminalizing sexual-harassment. I am very much looking forward to what my internship and this summer will bring. More updates to come!

Be well,

Caroline

Sunday, June 26, 2011

Internship with MCA

My internship with MCA has been a combination of simple edit and translation requests all the way to article writing and interviewing. Working with the publicity department means a full commitment to getting MCA's message out to the public through various means.

A typical day starts with me coming into the office and making a summary of important online news articles from four different online sources. After that, I am typically given an article to research and write about or a translation to do. The rest of the day will be filled with small projects like that. Depending on the day, I will be asked to go to a press statement where I will take pictures of report, even interview those in attendance. After the statement, I will return to MCA headquarters and write up a quick statement which is released online. By the end of the day, I am usually fine tuning articles, subtitles or statements which we fax out to all the various media outlets. My last task is always faxing out statements, so I end the day tapping away numbers into the fax machine. Work with MCA has been an amazing way to learn about Malaysia politics, and while I am still learned a lot I have a pretty good grasp on what is happening politically in this country.

In my time at MCA, there has not been an opportunity for me to get a photo of myself, so here
are two pictures of Professor Heng and I eating durians:


Thursday, June 23, 2011

Grilled Stingray with Hanim

The weekend before, when Hanim took me out for Dancing Fish, we spent a good portion of the time talking about food. She mentioned that I must try stingray before I left.

Sticking to her word, Hanim picked my up from work during lunch to eat at Sri Puteri (literally/loosely translated to Princess’s Glow - Sri is glow, and Puteri is Princess). The restaurant is up the hill in Taman Tun Dr Ismail, a suburb that straddles both the cities of Petaling Jaya and Kuala Lumpur. The space was less posh than Dancing Fish, but more fancy. I was pleased to find that it was buffet-style, so I didn’t have to wait any longer.

We had:

  • Ikan Bakar Pari (ikan=fish, bakar=burn, pari is stingray) Excellent!
  • Siput sedut masak lemak kuning (spiral clams cooked in tumeric coconut milk, Malaysian escargot) Good eating!
  • Ikan keli goreng berlada (Panfried catfish fried with chilli)
  • Pucuk Ubi masak lemak (Young tapioca leaves cooked in coconut milk)—basically greens Good stuff.
  • Soto Ayam Jawa (Javanese Chicken Broth) Yum.
  • Kerabu mangga (Mango Malay Salad) Mmm Mmm.
  • Kerabu Perut (Cow intestine Salad) Can you believe I ate that? I don’t even eat beef!
  • Ayam masak merah (Chicken slow cooked in tomato and sweet chilli) Great!
  • Raw pineapples, raw young papaya (which tasted like green apples) - these are accompaniments to any Malay meal
  • Tempe goreng (panfried fermented soy beans marinated in salt and tumeric) I wasn’t a fan.
  • Salt fish (deep-fried and incredibly salty, the size of goldfish. You eat it whole.) I wanted to spit it into my napkin so bad!

For dessert, I had:

  • Serawa Durian dengan pulut (Durian sweet stew with steamed sticky rice) I could have eaten an entire dinner plate of this.
  • Popia udang kering (deep fried spring roll filled with pounded dried shrimp and spices) - this is a savory sweet
  • Sago Gula Melaka (Sago accompanied with palm sugar and thickened coconut cream) I couldn’t stop myself from eating it.

For drinks, I had:

  • Sirap Limau (Rose syrup water with lemon), and
  • Sirap Bandung (Rose syrup, with evaporated milk and ice cream soda)
  • Coffee

Based on what I had seen other people do, I knew that it was okay for me to take two hours for lunch, rather than the allotted one. If I misread the norms and it was inappropriate, I’m sure that my status as a intern/tourist would have been a sufficient excuse. I stared at my computer, and just wanted to lay down and take a nap.